I think that patch is the best one for sure and it’s only one that i can buy as well. Good value for the money
Miss J, Lot to digest but I feel you deserve some insight: 1) Life insurance is income tax free. As opposed to what most finaicial planners tell you – it is 90% of the time included in your estate for estate tax purposes (there are advanced ways to get it out of your estate). So, if you had assets totalling $500,000 and you had a $1,000,000 policy. You would pay 0 in federal estate tax (because you can leave up to $3.5 Mil to a non-spousal US bene) but you might hit a State Estate Tax if you live in one of 18 states which are decoupled. 2) Second your end number is $1.67mil or something doesn’t into account future growth of that money. If you are trying to get how much you need that way (e.g. Income Replacement) you need to do the present value of that number given a specific growth rate (I would use something really low because the kid is going to have to be conservtive so like a 2.5% NET to 3.5% NET). 3) In terms of the mortgage you should build an excel sp...(Read more of this comment)
Hey there. Insurance shopping. We have one child, 3 months old. Anyways…Are life insurance benefits taxed? Becasue my before tax and after tax incomes are VERY different and that makes quite a difference in how I calculate the “rule of thumb”. Our son needs 21 years of “income replacement”. I make $78,000 a year (pre-tax) so I would need $1,638,000 in life insurance!? That seems like an awful lot… If I calculate it post tax then it’s still about 1.2 million which still seems like a lot…but maybe I’m just being naive about the whole situation… Also, providing that if I were to die, my husband could take a lump sum of cash and pay off our 30 year mortgage we would save an INCREDIBLE amount on interest…so doesn’t that reduce the amount of life insurance we need? For instance our $235,000 mortgage comes out to about $1,600 a month of which a whopping $1,100 goes to interest right now. I know that as time goes o...(Read more of this comment)
Humm, I take you IF I don’t have dependents but I have a sizeable estate, I don’t need insurance to pay taxes for the beneficary? IF I’m poor I don’t need insurance to pay for a funeral? If over 65 and I am married, my kids are grown, my spouse wouldn’t need to replace the lost income from my soical security nor would my spouse need to live after I’m gone? I’ve never seen such a crazy statement.
I recently started an internship with a mutual company and am on the (never ending I assume) path to learn everything about each concept (whole vs. term) and each product so I can best serve my clients and have a lucrative career that allows me to sleep at night. I’ve read that the average person will make additions to their original commitment 5-7 times over their lifetime. From a purely financial standpoint, I would much rather see the first year commissions from all 5-7 purchases, even if it’s term, by best serving my clients needs and situations then to push a whole life policy in order to get more cash. And that’s purely a financial move, not to mention ethical. Every negative thing I’ve read about products, rates of return, and sales tactics make me feel more and more secure about my position with this company and the standards which they teach and promote. Granted, not every agent will follow those and act in the best interest of the client, but that̵...(Read more of this comment)
Thanks, Shock!
Yes, you can pay annually. It’s the cheapest way to pay. I pay annually for my 30 term life insurance. Paying quarterly or monthly costs more at the end of the year. I’m like Jim, I didn’t need life insurance when I was single because no one is counting on my income if I die. Now that I’m married and have a kid on the way, It was time for life insurance. My financial advisor found the best coverage for the money. We had the medical exams at our home on our schedule. The process was painless (pun intended).
I have a question – say the term life policy is $30.00 a month. Do most companies have you pay monthly, or just pay one large sum at the beginning of the year?
Even if it is portable, it will more than likely be at a rating of “Standard” or higher. The reason for this is because the insurance was guaranteed issue, the company knows that a percentage of those people accepting the offer to buy additional insurance will be high risk, or be medically unable to qualify for a privately owned policy. These additional costs to the insurance company are absorbed by the healthy clients paying the high premiums. Some policies offered on a group basis (through an employer) are portable, but they HAVE to be converted to one of those horrible, nasty, “nobody ever wants it” Cash Value policies. Check all of the portability clauses on group insurance before deciding that this is the only insurance you plan on carrying for your family. One of the reasons I recommend that people talk with a local INDEPENDENT agent or financial planner about insurance. Aside from being greedy scumbags concerned only with commission, they also kno...(Read more of this comment)
Determining everything before buying insurance make cheaper your insurance. btw useful article.
Great article. It hit home for me because like the author, life insurance helped me get through college, too.
Just a quick comment on life insurance: look into fraternal insurance organizations like the Knights of Columbus, Modern Woodmen of America, etc. Some have membership requirements (”be a Catholic in good standing” for KOC) or are open to the general publi. Often these are rated at the top of the industry, rates are good, and returns are a bit higher. They tend to be more conservative in outlook, and don’t offer a lot of gimmicky products. They are like the “credit unions” of the life insurance industry. They are only accountable to their memberships, not outside investors. Dividends that they offer can be used to pay down premiums, often after just a couple of years. One upside of more expensive “whole life” style policies with fraternal insurance companies is that the dividends soon outweight the premiums, and can shift your insurance cost to $0 for a growing asset.
@Ian Not geared entirely to you, I have read others saying the same thing. Two things to consider: 1) You mention that you don’t “need” life insurance– you’re right you don’t need it– your family does. If you didn’t come home alive tonight– could your family use say $250,000 tax free if you aren’t alive? 2) Are you a gambling man? You are assuming that you will remain insurable a few years from now? What if you are not insurable in a few years?
DDFD said: “The best time to buy is today” I don’t need the benefits of life insurance coverage for several years (read ~5). Does it make sense to pay for it now anyway? What do you do when the policy ends earlier (because you bought early) and you are still alive, do you purchase again at an even higher rate? I am in the same boat as Jim (28, married, no kids) and not planning on buying life insurance yet. Does it make any sense at all to wait? Converting this to a math problem: The cost over the next 5 years of insurance i don’t need (~$3k) vs. the additional cost if i buy a policy 5 years from now ($??)
Yes you can lose money in your investments and that would make ROP policies a better safe investment. There aren’t any guaranteed 8% returns and it seems unlikely there will be in the near future, unless we start seeing runaway inflation, in which case 8% won’t be that great anyway. But you need to know these numbers so you can make decisions. I don’t think 8% annualized growth over 30 years is unreasonable, especially when you believe the market is in a depressed state right now. If the numbers said you needed 20% annualized growth over 30 years to breakeven, then you know clearly what the right answer is. 8% isn’t outlandish, but 20% probably is.
Jim, I tend to disagree with your quotes “While appealing, would I be better served taking the $34 difference in premiums a month ($76 - $42, TransAmerica) and investing it? After 30 years, assuming 8% annual growth and $408 in annual contributions, the investment would yield over $46,200. Cut away 25% for Uncle Sam, and you end up with $34,650, which puts you ahead of the premium life insurance plan and you retain control of your money.” Although theoretically if your investment earns 8% annual growth you would come out ahead but you can also make losses with your investment and not see the money at all. wouldn’t ROP policies a better safe investement. Besides where do you get a guaranteed 8% returns these days. I would like to know if there is such an investment. TJ Shah
Nice article. I’m pretty much in that same boat that you are as far as not needing life insurance at the moment. I’m 99.9% sure that I’ll be getting $500,000, 30 year, term life insurance when the time comes.
I had term life for 4 years, then I recently converted to whole life. It’s nice to know that I could use that investment money later on down the line as collateral and my premiums are fixed for life. It’s a small plan of $150k and I think it’s a good start. I like the idea of whole life insurance. If I saved $XX on my monthly premium by having term, could I invest the rest (like many people say)? Sure I ‘could’ but I won’t… just like most people. This thought did come to mind though when I converted to whole life, so I immediately setup an automatic savings plan with Capital One Direct while it was fresh on my mind.
I’ve decided not to get life insurance for now, so no application process planned.
We recently got life insurance and I’m happy we did. I feel more comfortable now that I know my family will be taken care of. As I generally recommend (in a non-professional, disclaimer-ridden way), get enough Whole Life to cover the “fixed” end-of-life expenses such as the funeral and get Term Life to cover what your heirs will need for that period of their life. What your family will need over 30 years is different if you’re starting the clock at 28 vs 38.
I really like how you broke down the premium insurance policy concept. Getting @10% sounds absurd given the current state of affairs, but it’s not impossible. However, you’d have to operate that personal account and manage the portfolio to accurately reflect your risk. Similar to what happened to those recently who didn’t plan for retirement, you could lose all those savings come maturity time. On the other hand, the premium account (I’m assuming) is guaranteed since you didn’t die.
It makes sense in that it’s cheap when you’re 24 and will seem very cheap if you compare it to how much it would cost later on, as for whether it’s a “good deal,” who knows… it’s insurance. If you live past 54, it’s not a good deal but you’re alive. If you don’t, well it’s a good deal and you’re dead… in which case it doesn’t matter.
They were for $500,000 30 year policies, I must have accidentally removed that in editing.
That’s very true and usually one of there reasons why people recommend against getting insurance linked to your employment. Even if you don’t get laid off and instead want to work somewhere else, it makes the move a little harder.
I’ve subjected myself to insurance medical exams twice. Once to get Universal Whole Life insurance (thanks a lot, “financial advisor”) and a second time (when I came to my senses) to get a term policy with better coverage for a lot less. Both exams were non-events. A nurse came by, took a health history, blood pressure, urine, height, weight and blood. In both cases, I was in the lowest risk category. I believe the risk categories are quite prescrIptive - typically based on health data (such as cholesterol, HDL/LDL ratio, height, weight, etc) instead of the opinion of a specific doctor. My wife and I have two children under 3 years of age, and my wife stays at home. As such, I signed up for as much term coverage as I could (12-14x annual salary is typical max). Being in the super preferred category, I got a $1MM 30-yr term policy for about $55/mo. My strategy was to get as much coverage as I could so my wife would have time to raise the kids and get them...(Read more of this comment)