THESE DAYS, EVERYONE

from rap stars to suburban moms is dripping in designer goods. But with luxury handbags, watches and the like easily retailing for thousands of dollars, knockoffs have become a major industry in their own right, albeit an illegal one.

What separates the real from a fake? To find out, we went hunting at one of the most notorious destinations for knockoffs: Canal Street in New York City. Here, backroom shops are loaded with fakes of the most popular high-end brands, including Prada, Gucci and Rolex.

We'll show you what differentiates a luxury item from its cheap counterfeit version. (Come on, you know you're curious.) And if the real deal is out of your price range, we'll also suggest legitimate alternatives to the fakes. Trust us, you'll feel a lot better carrying around one of these substitutes, rather than a cheesy knockoff.

Next:


Not a Victimless Crime

When you buy a knockoff handbag, watch or other designer item, it's easy to think you're doing something fairly harmless. After all, you're just sticking it to the designer who had the gall to charge thousands of dollars for a simple piece, right?

Well, yes, the designer's business is damaged by counterfeit goods, but the problem is more widespread. Counterfeit goods represent 7% of world trade, a market worth more than $350 billion, according to the International Chamber of Commerce, an international business group. Every dollar spent on counterfeit goods is a dollar in lost revenue for local businesses and in sales tax revenue for your community. Worse yet are the industry's connections to child labor violations, organized crime and terrorism.

Prosecutors and lawyers for the brands tend to go after the manufacturers and bulk suppliers, hoping to cut off the supply chain to individual sellers. While it's unlikely you'd be arrested for purchasing a counterfeit item, you certainly could get in trouble with the law. Last year, tourists in Italy were slapped with a $4,000 fine for buying a fake Prada bag. And don't forget those Recording Industry Association of America lawsuits against individuals for copyright infringement on illegally downloaded music. A more likely scenario is that your goods may be confiscated. Last year U.S. Customs and Border Protection seized $93 million worth of counterfeit items from individuals, mostly at airports.

Handbags


"As soon as something becomes an 'it' bag, it's got a replica on the street," says Brenda Kauffman, fashion director for Bag, Borrow or Steal, a company that rents designer handbags. Case in point: The Louis Vuitton Globe Shopper Cabas MM (see photos below). The legit item, which has been sold out at Louis Vuitton stores across the globe since March, retails for $1,280. That price may seem a bit steep for a bag that's primarily canvas, but the antique brass hardware combined with the venerable Louis Vuitton name means folks will happily pay the price. Today, copies are prolific and, because the canvas bag is trendy, even the knockoff isn't particularly cheap. On Canal Street, the going rate was roughly $50.

While some knockoff designer bags are easy to spot (think "Pravda" instead of "Prada") others are tougher many times, they are produced after-hours by the same factories making the real bags, says Kauffman. To most observers, the bags are nearly identical. Spotting a fake comes down to knowing the intimate details of the real bag:


Left: Louis Vuitton Globe Shopper Cabas MM.
Right: Knockoff version.


NumberReal BagKnockoff Bag
113" x 11.8" x 3.1"14.5" x 12" x 5.25"
2Supple leather trim and details.Thin, low-quality leather with a plastic-feel to the finish.
3Linen center panel.Canvas center panel.
4Gold logo.Mustard logo.
5Logo on one side (front) of the bag.Logo on both sides of the bag.
6Snap-hook closure to main compartment.Zipper closure to main compartment.
7Two engraved antique brass buckles on each side.Two metallic buckles on each side. One grommet on the left side hasn't been punched through.
8LV-monogrammed brown lining.Plain brown lining.
9Handle straps have thick white middle, flanked by tiny yellow and thin brown stripes.Brown stripes are as thick as the white center stripe.
10Comes with an authenticity card and care instructions.A tag states that Louis Vuitton made the bag out of cowhide leather, and a man-made interior lining. No other documents are included.

Even if your budget is low, you can find a good quality bag in your price range. We dug up some legit alternatives to this $50 knockoff:

The Price Is RightPrice (Condition)
BCBGirls Luster Dome Satchel $49.90 (secondhand)
LeSportsac Small Weekender $65 (new)
Betsey Johnson Betseyville Metallic Hobo $68.95 (new)
FakeWear "Fake" Louis Vuitton Bag $70.79 (new)
Juicy Couture Terry Zipper Bag $89.90 (secondhand)
Coach Signature Small Soft Duffle $198 (new)

Watches


Nothing boosts your ego quite like flashing a trendy timepiece, but the fakes are all flash and no substance. In the real thing, watch connoisseurs are paying for what's inside the hundreds of individual handcrafted components that keep the timepiece tick-ticking along and enable a host of special functions. The Breitling Navitimer Heritage, for example, is prized for its ability to time successive events without the need to restart at zero. A real model regularly retails for $5,250, indicating intricate design and complex capabilities. The knockoff went for $45.

Also See
The Wrist Wars

It can be difficult to spot a fake watch without wrenching open the back, says Terry Betteridge, owner of A.E. Betteridge, an estate jeweler in Greenwich, Conn. Still, there are a few telltale sings to look for before you visit your jeweler for an analysis:


Left: Breitling Navitimer Heritage.
Right: Knockoff version.


NumberReal WatchKnockoff Watch
1Each link is polished and contoured to rest smoothly against the wrist.The bracelet is unfinished rough and scratchy, with plenty of sharp edges.
2Gold logo clearly depicts a "B" and an anchor between a pair of wings.Black logo has a slightly squashed shape with fewer details in the wings.
3Base of the second hand has a partial logo a "B" with an anchor.The "B" on the second hand is backwards.
4Two stopwatch buttons.No stopwatch buttons.
5Hours marked with black and luminescent bars.Hours marked with Roman numerals.
6Luminescent hour and minute hands.White hour and minute hands.
7Three time totalizer dials and a perpetual calendar window.Three dials: One monitors night and day, one tells military time and one counterbalances the automatic winding of the watch.
8Numbers on outer dial range from 10 to 95.Numbers on outer dial range from 1.1 to 10.
9Notched edge around face.Diamond-pattern around face.
10Stainless steel back secured with screws.One-piece tin back twists on and off.
11Back engraved with the Breitling logo and style number.Back with raised star design and faux screws.
12Timepiece contains several hundred components.A handful of moving parts.
13No plastic inside.Working components contained in a plastic case.

You won't find a designer watch in the $50 range, that's for sure. But these watches are certainly of better quality than that knockoff and come with a manufacturer's warranty, to boot:

The Price Is RightPrice
Guess Men's WaterPro Guess Men's WaterPro $65
Tommy Hilfiger Watch $65
Elgin Men's Solid Link Bracelet $95
Citizen's Eco Drive Watch $112.50
Hamilton Cushion (circa 1928) $829

Sunglasses


At $5 a pair, these knockoff Armani glasses are a cheap way to get in on the summer big-glasses trend. Never mind that the weak plastic frames don't come close to the real Emporio Armani EA 9241/S, which retail for $160. With the real deal, you're paying primarily for the design, but also for quality. Cheap sunglasses are simply tinted plastic, which absorbs few UV rays. They don't actually protect your eyes. Better glasses offer a protective coating to block those rays, and may also have special tints or shapes to further protect your eyes.



* Top: Emporio Armani EA 9241/S sunglasses.
Bottom: Knockoff version.


NumberReal SunglassesKnockoff Sunglasses
1Logo is composed of silver dots.Logo is a block of silver coloring with perforations.
2Logo is positioned half on glasses frame, half on earpiece.Logo is entirely on earpiece.
3Logo is an "EA" eagle.Logo is a "V."
4Frame rounds gradually to meet earpiece.Frame curves sharply.
5Glasses come in black, brown, white or yellow.Green.

Spend your money instead on a similarly priced pair from your local drugstore. Look for a pair with the AOA Seal of Acceptance or a label that says it blocks 100% of UV rays (may also be written as 400 UV protection).

Movies


The idea is tempting: Why pay big bucks and endure the hassle of watching a film at the theater during opening weekend when you can just buy the knockoff DVD and watch it at home? These knockoffs turn up on Canal Street within a day of a movie's opening day.

To test the wares, we picked up Will Ferrell's new comedy "Talladega Nights: The Ballad of Ricky Bobby," which was released Aug. 4. The results? Not good. To create the DVD, someone used a hand-held camera in the theater. So not only is the image quality poor, but a person's head obstructs your view.


Left: Movie poster for "Talladega Nights."
Right: Knockoff DVD cover.


NumberIn-Theater ExperienceKnockoff DVD
1Clear view.Shadows block the screen as people get up or sit down.
2Perfect focus.Fuzzy, out-of-focus.
3Laugh when you feel like it."Canned" laughter track from that showing's in-theater audience.
4You can get your money back or see another screening if there's a malfunction with the reels.This DVD worked intermittently. In one player, it worked one day but not the next. In other players, it wouldn't function at all. Of course, there was no way to get a refund.

For more, see our column Cheap Seats

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