WE'RE JUST SHY

of the Arctic Circle on a glacier that peaks above the clouds. Our friends think we're crazy we've flown, driven and hiked almost 3,000 miles to Iceland, then dragged a local tour guide out with us, all for the purpose of testing winter coats. But hey, in the age of global warming, you've got to go pretty far to get cold.

Okay, we're kidding (about the global warming, not the trip). Still, the need for winter coats may be waning. Retailers dubbed 2006 "the year of the coat crisis" due to racks of unsold winter coats in stores and mild temperatures on the East Coast of the U.S. and in Western Europe. In 2008 the outlook for coat retailers is, again, grim. Two winters ago there was a 20% plunge in sales of outerwear, according to Marshal Cohen, a chief analyst at research firm NPD, and this year the firm is expecting a 4% drop. "Because of everything we've seen with global warming, there's been just as much demand for vests as winter coats," says Michael Macko, vice president of men's fashion for Saks Fifth Avenue.

In reaction to climate change, the $3 billion men's winter coat industry has been rolling out parkas that makers claim are lighter, more versatile and both fashionable and functional. Say so long to the puffy down jacket that transformed you into the Michelin Man, and open your arms to a coat that is still insulated but sports more style. With the proliferation of high-tech materials like Gore-Tex, Apex and PrimaLoft, manufacturers say they're able to create warmth with less bulk. Price tags, on the other hand, are swelling: These styles start from around $300 and can go north of $3,000.

Global warming or not, winters do still get cold. We decided that a test of coats called for a trek to a place where, for now at least, temperatures dip well below zero. And here we are, on Iceland's Langjokull glacier. At 38 miles long, it's three times the length of Manhattan, and it soars more than 4,460 feet into the air; temperatures drop to a chilling minus 31 degrees Fahrenheit. With us is Kristjan Kristjansson, founder of adventure tour company Mountain Taxi and a 15-year member of a rescue team that assists and rescues locals and tourists alike on glaciers, on mountains and even in caves. This Icelander is such a fan of glaciers that he and his bride exchanged vows on one in their snowmobiling suits.

When our superjeep comes to a halt on the glacier, we fasten ice crampons around our hiking boots, and Kristjansson promptly dons the Moncler Karakorum ($890). Originally known for outfitting downhill skiers, Moncler was among the first brands to take the down jacket from the slopes to the street and offer more-fitted styles. Even so, the Karakorum is one of the puffier jackets that we've brought along. But Kristjansson doesn't think its design adequately protects him from the glacier's robust winds: "For Icelandic conditions, this is no good," he says, turning his back to the wind as he futzes with the blue buttons. According to him, the lack of a zipper means that bitter winds can make their way into the coat. "Snow could come in too," he says. (A spokesperson from Moncler says the coat's double row of buttons makes it "quite impossible for snow to get in.") Kristjansson approves of the lightweight duvet filling, made from what else? the feathers of aquatic birds raised in the south of France. But the overall look of the coat puts him off: "I would never buy this for myself."

When we pull out The North Face Apex Elbrus ($700), Kristjansson is anxious to get warm, and we hope this coat will do the trick. According to the company, it was introduced to combine high-tech materials with sophisticated design. Kristjansson, however, isn't satisfied with the fitted shape, and though this coat has snaps instead of buttons like the Karakorum, our guide is once again thwarted. And where, we wonder, are the drawstrings? Kristjansson says they are crucial for trapping body heat at both the bottom of the jacket and around the cuffs.

Bottom line: The Apex Elbrus isn't keeping our expert warm. Kristjansson says he would wear it in the city, "on a walk to the cinema," but not outdoors for any length of time. Back in sunny California, a North Face spokesperson says the jacket is intended for cold city conditions, not subzero climes.

The L.L. Bean Arctic Expedition Parka ($400), in dark indigo with a fur-lined hood, comes along at just the right time, warming up Kristjansson as soon as he dons it. "Again, these buttons!" our zipper-loving guide complains. But it's a small point compared with the coat's warmth. The hood, which felt heavy to him at first, turns out to be a stellar windbreaker, and the big front pocket is ideal for holding maps and a GPS, Kristjansson says. He takes a short walk up the glacier to see how it breathes if it becomes too warm and makes him sweat and says it would be fine for outdoor activity. "It's quite comfortable," he says.

By now the winds are picking up, and we reach for the brown Marmot Big Parka ($550), with its Gore-Tex shell and 700 fill-power goose down. When Kristjansson tries on the Big Parka, it's much too large (the company agrees that the coat runs big, and we can't say the name didn't warn us). But Kristjansson says it doesn't feel as heavy as it looks. As he marches up the glacier, stomping on compacted ice, the coat has a fair amount of "give," or flexibility. Kristjansson also approves of the design, calling it "a very well-thought-out jacket," adding that its front flap and chest pockets, as well as an inside mesh pocket, are practical for the outdoors. Most beneficial is the drawstring at the bottom. Kristjansson is ready to call this our favorite, but we ask him to hold off just a bit longer.

As he zips up the $550, which is notably thinner than the Big Parka, Kristjansson says it's remarkably lightweight and surprisingly effective at keeping him warm. What's more, the coat is not only insulated but also wind- and waterproof. Though our guide wishes it had an inner pocket, the jacket's lack of one doesn't detract from its impressive balance of warmth and breathability: "This is great for Iceland." That said, he turns his back to us and ventures up the glacier for one last view of the surrounding clouds, which appear to be at arm's reach. Eventually, we pack up the superjeep and make our way back, gazing at the mountains, lava fields and geothermal hot springs.

Moncler Karakorum	The North Face Apex Elbrus	L.L.Bean Arctic Expedition Parka
Price: $890 Breathability: Warmth: Overall: Comment: The Karakorum didn't protect our tester from conditions on the glacier; the coat simply couldn't keep out cold winds.	Price: $700 Breathability: Warmth: Overall: Comment: This coat's sophisticated fit is stylish, but its combination of high-tech fabrics is better suited to city conditions.	Price: $400 Breathability: Warmth: Overall: Comment: The parka's heavy hood blocks strong winds, and there are enough pockets, 12 total, to hold travel gear and GPS.

Marmot Big Parka	Arc'teryx Fission SV Jacket
Price: $550 Breathability: Warmth: Overall: Comment: This coat has great "give"; the Big Parka felt lighter than expected and effectively blocked the cold.	Price: $550 Breathability: Warmth: Overall: Comment: This versatile jacket, appropriate for both hiking glaciers and walking city streets, is as breathable and lightweight as it is warm.